Female pigs do not have periods in the same way women do; instead, they have an estrous cycle characterized by signs of heat, such as a swollen, reddened vulva, but they do not experience the outward bleeding of the uterine lining that occurs during menstruation. The lining of a pig’s uterus is reabsorbed, a process different from the shedding seen in a menstrual cycle.

What pigs do experience (Estrous Cycle)

Behavioral and physical changes: Pigs enter a period called “heat” (estrus) where they become sexually receptive to mating.

Signs of heat: You may observe a swollen, reddened vulva, mucus discharge, restlessness, vocalization (like high-pitched whining), mounting other pigs, or a “standing” reflex where the female stands rigid and immobile when mounted.

Key differences from human menstruation

No outward bleeding: A significant difference is the lack of visible bleeding from the vulva.

Internal process: In female pigs, like other mammals that don’t menstruate, the uterine lining is reabsorbed internally at the end of the reproductive cycle.

Menstruation is rare: True menstruation, with visible bleeding, is a relatively rare phenomenon found primarily in primates and a few other specific species.

Immediate veterinary care is needed for a sow that is still bleeding weeks after giving birth. A small to moderate discharge in the first few days after farrowing is normal, but prolonged or heavy bleeding is a serious symptom of an underlying medical problem.

Potential medical causes
Prolonged postpartum bleeding can be a symptom of several conditions, including:

Retained afterbirth or fetus: If part of the placenta or a mummified piglet remains inside the uterus, it can cause infection and persistent bleeding.

Uterine infection (metritis): Bacteria can enter the uterus during farrowing, causing an infection that results in large amounts of foul-smelling discharge, which may include blood. Metritis is often accompanied by fever, lethargy, and a loss of appetite.

Vulval or uterine trauma: The vulva or uterus can be injured during a difficult or assisted birth. A severe vulval hematoma (blood-filled swelling) can occur, and if it ruptures, it will cause heavy bleeding.

Uterine prolapse: Though usually happening within hours of farrowing, a prolapse can sometimes occur later. This is a life-threatening condition where the uterus turns inside out and protrudes from the body, causing significant blood loss.

Cystitis (bladder infection):

Infections of the bladder or kidneys can lead to blood or pus in the urine, which may be mistaken for a vaginal discharge.

What to do immediately
Contact a veterinarian immediately. Prolonged bleeding is a serious issue that requires a professional diagnosis and treatment. In some cases, it can be life-threatening.
Monitor the sow closely. Take note of her behavior and any other symptoms, as this information will be vital for the vet.

Appetite: Is she eating and drinking normally?

Energy level: Does she appear lethargic or weak?

Fever: Is she unusually warm to the touch? A fever can indicate a severe infection.

Milk production: Is there a drop in milk production? Reduced milk supply is often an early sign of a problem.

Piglets: Are her piglets showing signs of being underfed, such as weakness or diarrhea?

Provide supportive care. Keep the sow in a clean, quiet, and comfortable environment to minimize stress and prevent further infection.

Do not attempt manual intervention. Unless you are a vet or experienced in such a procedure, you risk causing further injury, shock, or infection.

You can generally keep two miniature cows per acre, or even three on very good pastures, but the exact number depends on pasture quality, management practices like rotational grazing, rainfall, and the specific miniature breed. A rule of thumb for calculating pasture needs is about 3/4 to 1 acre per “cow unit” (a 1,000 lb animal), so using this for miniature breeds is a good starting point.

Factors that influence stocking rates:

Pasture Quality:

Higher-quality pastures with good grass growth will support more animals than unimproved or wooded pastures.

Rainfall:

Adequate rainfall is essential for grass to grow and recover, impacting how many cows an acre can sustain.

Management Practices:

Rotational grazing, where you move cows between different pasture sections, allows the land to recover and can significantly increase the number of animals you can keep.

Breed:

Different miniature breeds have varying nutritional needs and sizes, affecting the land required.

Supplementation:

If your pasture is not sufficient, you may need to provide supplemental hay or feed, especially during the winter or dry periods.

Tips for small acreages:

Consult your County Extension agent:

They can provide specific advice tailored to your local conditions and pasture types.

Consider rotational grazing:

Dividing your pasture into smaller sections and rotating your cows through them is the best way to manage land and keep the pasture healthy.

Monitor your pasture:

Keep an eye on the grass height to ensure it doesn’t get too bare, which can harm the pasture and the animals.

To make a tree stump rot faster, you can use a combination of drilling, moisture, and additives like Epsom salt or high-nitrogen fertilizer to accelerate decomposition. The process creates a hospitable environment for the fungi and bacteria that naturally break down wood.

Step 1: Cut and drill the stump
First, cut the stump as low to the ground as possible to minimize the amount of wood that needs to decompose. Then, use a large drill bit (at least 1 inch wide) to bore several deep holes into the top of the stump.

Drill holes 8 to 10 inches deep, spacing them a few inches apart.
Drill additional holes into any major surface roots you can expose.

This process increases the surface area exposed to moisture and additives, and creates channels for them to penetrate deeper.

Step 2: Add an accelerating agent
Fill the drilled holes with one of the following agents.

Epsom salt

This is a popular and relatively safe DIY method. The magnesium sulfate in Epsom salt draws moisture out of the stump, dehydrating and killing it, while also accelerating decay.

Fill the holes with Epsom salt.
Add just enough water to saturate the salt.

Cover the stump to prevent rain from washing away the salt and to keep moisture in.

Reapply the salt every few weeks.
High-nitrogen fertilizer
This method feeds the microbes that break down the wood.

Use a high-nitrogen fertilizer, such as ammonium sulfate or ammonium nitrate.

Fill the holes with fertilizer granules.
Pour hot water over the stump to help the fertilizer dissolve and penetrate.

Cover the stump with a high-nitrogen material like compost or horse manure to add more microbes and keep it moist.

Potassium nitrate

Commercial stump-removal products often contain potassium nitrate, which provides more oxygen for the bacteria that decompose wood fiber.

Fill the drilled holes with potassium nitrate granules.

Pour hot water into the holes.
Follow the product’s instructions for additional steps.

Step 3: Maintain moisture
Keeping the stump consistently damp is crucial for the microbial activity that causes decomposition.
Cover the stump: After adding your agent, cover the stump with a plastic tarp and weigh it down with rocks, bricks, or mulch.

Keep it wet: Water the stump regularly, especially during dry spells, to maintain the damp conditions needed for fungi and bacteria to thrive.

Use mulch: A layer of organic mulch or compost on top of the stump also helps retain moisture and introduces more beneficial microbes.

Step 4: Add fire (optional, if local laws permit)

If burning is allowed in your area, you can accelerate the process once the stump has dried out from a salt treatment.

Once the stump is sufficiently dry, you can ignite it to burn out the remaining wood.

Exercise extreme caution and check with your local fire department for regulations.

Consider the stump type
The time it takes for a stump to rot depends largely on the type of wood.

Softwoods like white pine or Douglas fir decompose faster.
Hardwoods such as oak can take much longer to decay naturally.

Boneset (Eupatorium perfoliatum) has a long history of traditional use for treating symptoms associated with fevers, colds, and flu, but it should be approached with caution due to safety concerns. The name boneset comes from its use in treating “breakbone fever,” an old name for dengue fever, which caused severe muscle and bone aches. While traditional applications focus on stimulating the immune system and promoting sweating, modern scientific evidence is limited and recommends careful use.

Disclaimer: Due to potential toxicity and the presence of liver-damaging alkaloids, Boneset is not recommended for internal use without expert medical supervision.

Traditional and historical uses
Historically, boneset was used by Native Americans and early American settlers for a variety of conditions, often prepared as a hot, bitter tea.

Fever and flu: As a diaphoretic, it was used to induce sweating to “break” fevers and alleviate the aches and pains associated with influenza and dengue fever.

Respiratory ailments: It was used as an expectorant to help loosen mucus and clear congestion in the chest and sinuses.

Immune stimulation: Early herbalists used boneset as an immune stimulant to help the body fight off minor viral and bacterial infections.

Digestive aid: Its bitter properties were traditionally thought to stimulate digestion, though large doses were known to cause vomiting.

Modern scientific perspective
Scientific evidence for the safety and effectiveness of boneset is limited, and most studies are either lab-based (in vitro) or preliminary.

Antiviral and immune properties: Some in vitro studies suggest that boneset may stimulate immune cell function and inhibit influenza viruses by preventing them from attaching to host cells.

Anti-inflammatory effects: Preclinical studies indicate that certain compounds in boneset may have anti-inflammatory effects.

Lack of clinical evidence: There are insufficient clinical trials to confirm the effectiveness of boneset for treating colds, flu, or other conditions in humans.

Safety concerns and precautions
Due to its chemical composition, boneset carries significant health risks and should not be used without medical consultation.

Liver damage: Boneset contains potentially toxic compounds called pyrrolizidine alkaloids (PAs). While some sources claim the levels are minimal in Eupatorium perfoliatum, others warn that PAs can cause serious liver damage, especially with long-term use.

Gastrointestinal issues: Ingesting large doses can cause severe diarrhea and vomiting.

Allergic reactions: Individuals with allergies to plants in the Asteraceae/Compositae family, such as ragweed, daisies, and marigolds, may experience an allergic reaction.

Pregnancy and breastfeeding: Boneset is considered possibly unsafe for pregnant or breastfeeding women and should be avoided.

Drug interactions: Boneset may interact with medications broken down by the liver. Consultation with a healthcare provider is essential.